2024 Vlora

Vlora, Vlore County - Sept 15th 2024 to Jan 5th 2025

ALBANIA

9/15/202412 min read

About Vlora:

Vlorë, as spelled in Albanian, is the third most populous city and the second biggest port in Albania. Located in southwestern Albania, Vlora is surrounded by the foothills of the Ceraunian Mountains along the Albanian Adriatic and Ionian Sea coasts. The Vlora coastline accounts for about 30% of the entire country's coast.

The city was founded in the 6th century BC as Aulon, one of three Greek colonies on the Illyrian coast, meaning "channel, glen". From here, you can cross to Italy and get other ferries further to Greece, Croatia and beyond. The alternative international ferry ports are in Durres (north) and Saranda (south)

It was strategically important during Roman times and in the 11th–12th-century wars between Normans and Byzantines. Later it was contested by Venetians, Serbs, and Turks. On November 28, 1912, Ismail Qemal proclaimed there the independence of Albania.

Vlorë was occupied by the Italians in 1915–20 and again in 1939. During World War II Sazan was used as a German and Italian submarine base. After the war the town’s harbour and submarine facilities were improved by the Soviet Union, which used the bay as a naval base until 1961, when conflict between the two states resulted in a Soviet departure.

Vlorë’s population includes Muslims, Greek Orthodox, and a few Roman Catholics.

The town is surrounded by hilly olive groves and is situated just inland from its port, which is linked by pipeline to oil fields and the Cërrik refinery. Vlorë has a fishing and canning industry, a distillery, and an olive-oil refinery. Natural bitumen from nearby Selenicë is exported.

Population: (2001) 77,691 - (2011) 79,513 - (2023) 83,683

Ferries from Vlora to Brindisi normally sail 6 times a week. Sailing frequency may increase in peak season over the summer and decrease over the winter period.

Ferry travel from Vlora to Brindisi on average typically takes 6h 40m. The earliest ferry typically leaves from Vlora at 11:00pm, arriving to Brindisi at 07:00am.

If you go to the map above, zoom in to the Lungomare Seafront pROMANADE, the Apt block is just across the road and north ...up the road from Novus Traditional Restaurant, past the Luxe Market HASO & bar and just around the bend after the Adriatik Restaurant... on the same side... - got that? :)

September 15th-16th 2024

We flew from Birmingham Airport (1st 3 pics) where we had stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn which was in walking distance of the Ryan Air baggage check in. (We did a test run the day before so we knew how long it would take us!)

We had to be at the check in /security by 4:30am as our tickets /passports needed to be verified. Flight was scheduled to depart at 6:15am and security was busy.

We boarded the flight and took off a few minutes late which we were told they would make up on this direct flict to Tirana. We arrived on time at Tirana and made our way off the plane to the immigration electronic stations and went strait through after scanning our US passports and having automatic photo taken.

We retrieved our baggage easily and were out the door where it was tipping down with rain! Apparently is had been raining quite hard on and off for the last week, which is unusual for this time of year. Rain was forecast the coming week but temps were going to be in the mid 70s to 80...maybe a bit humid.

Our AirBnb host, Genti, in Vlora had ordered a transfer for us, down to Vlora which took 2 hrs with a short stop for lunch.

Our host was waiting for us and took us up to the apt. on the 10th floor (top). Spacious apt with high ceilings and an angled view towards the Bay.

There are 3 restaurants right near us...Italian Pizza and Pasta right outside our building entrance, a traditional Albanian restaurant called Adriatik and another local cuisine restaurant, Novus Traditional Restaurant as well as two bars less than 100yds. The nearest supermarket, a local Haso chain is less than 50yds.

The night was rather noisy as we went to bed early having been up early to catch the flight. Apparently they eat a late lunch and restaurants are open late until after midnight...not sure if that is because its the near the end of the tourist season and they have been used to that for the summer or if its always like that - bit like Spain. A lot of supermarkets are also open until after midnight.

Bed was a bit harder than we were used to but there was a single sofa bed in the bedroom which was softer. The next night we used one of the small double sofa beds in the living room to see what they were like!

Genti our host bought us a new microwave and also brought around a Rice Cooker and another kitchen knife. He advised us where the best/cheapest veg/fruit market was and restaurants nearby and told us to ask him if we needed anything :)

The next day we went to the local supermarket to check it out and bought some basic supplies.

Wine is about the same price here as in UK which is expensive to me! Beer is cheaper here, bit like Portugal and Spain - about $2.75 for 2 liters (3.5 pints). They have a history of wine making dating back to the Bronze age, about 3000 year ago! Click on link HERE to learn more about Albanian wines!

Wikipedia Albanian Wines

Click on a picture to enlarge:

Sunset view from Apartment

Week of 22nd September 2024

Well, its over a week since we arrived here in Vlora and the weather is not bad! We have walked to Markets and along the seafront promenade and reacquainted ourselves with areas we had visited before in 2023. WE have not been out for any meals and have cooked all our meals in. We are trying to have two meals a day - one around midday and the other around 6pm. We drink coffee and tea to keep us going until midday :)

We went to the locals market - TANI a few blocks away and bought some fresh veg ...not as expensive as other supermarkets, so that was good!

About $21 for this lot of veg and eggs - not sure on prices in USA now?

Looking at maybe walking to Kanina Castle...its about a 1hr 25min walk from the apt and the last section is pretty steep...we will only try when the weather is cooler! Should be good views from there:)

September 24th

Today we had our first power outages. at 14:55 for a couple of minutes and again at 15:07 for 5 mins. Everything in the apt is electric so if we lose power for more than a few hours it is very inconvenient!

We usually rent an apartment that has both propane and electric...at least you can then heat water and cook meals - quite a few apartments have dual fuel ranges with 2 electric rings and 2 gas rings which is handy.

Went for a walk to the other Market IM along the Lungomare after sunset...tons of people out. Trying to find tea bags with black tea but could only find fruit or herbal teas. Ended up buying some ground coffee and more UHT milk. Store was small and narrow walkways and tons of people. Difficult to shop although some of their frozen mixed veg was cheaper. Probably wont go back there - and when I got home I found that I did not get the discounted price on one of the coffees - my fault for not checking at the check out!

Still 75 at 7:30pm...forecast says 84 by Saturday!

Click on a picture to enlarge

First week October 2024

Well we went out for our Anniversary meal at the local Adriatik Restaurant which is just 20yds from our apt entrance. The restaurant cooks authentic traditional Albanian dishes and is considered budget priced :)

We ordered a mixed salad which had tomatoes, cucumber, onion and feta type cheese. This was a large salad and came with a bread basket. Wendy had a rice dish with a little cheese on top with a Okra main dish in a gravy/sauce to go with it.

I ordered a beef version of the Okra which was very good! We had a 500ml bottle of Korce beer and a 330ml Pepsi. Dessert was a home made cake...sort of sticky toffee with spices and some honey drizzled over the top.

Nice meal and we were both full up!

Total price was about 2250 Leke or about $25.

Of course I forgot to take pictures!

October 3rd -5th

We had gale force winds which felt like a hurricane! I closed and locked all the metal shutters as I though the shutters might be ripped out! The ferry from Brindisi did not come in to Port so I expect it was cancelled.

October 4th we had tons of torrential rain and also high winds. The sea started flooding the Lungomare and I am sure rain from the hills didn't help!

There was a lot if flooding and shortly after 4pm our power went out.

Power was finally returned after 1pm the next day so at least 21 hours without any power!

The Army was called in to help with the clear up. You can see a couple of flood pictures...the first shows the sea coming up over the Lungomare and the second is flooding in the side streets near us!

Last two pictures show the view behind us to the hills and the Vlora Soccer Stadium :)

Sun is out after some showers earlier!

Week of Sunday October 6th 2024

Our host, Genti, kindly exchanged $200 into Leke for us again. Rate was 89.20 Lek to USD.

I am keeping an eye on whether the dollar is weakening against the Leke. The US Dollar has gone down around 5-6% against other world currencies in last couple of years..

We use the cash at the Tani market as they only take cash and also the local Adriatik Restaurant.

We were recommended Supermarket Univers for a good selection of items and bulk packages. Still have yet to try this out as its a little further to go and we have to carry the bags back...but worth a look!

Since Ryan Air cancelled our return trip to Birmingham on Jan 6th 2025 we are looking at various ways of returning to UK. bus, train and flying.

Bus is cheapest but can take up to 2 days. Trains may be a good deal if I can find some discount - maybe some week Euro ticket!

October 10th 2024

Went for a walk to the beach which is north -west of the Port of Vlora called Plazhi Vjeter.

The beach had been cleaned up of rubbish since the storm and the floods but it was still in piles to be taken away. Some of the bars/Restaurants looked like they were still recovering from the high tides/storm.

We walked along the road until we reached the side street that went to the Plazhi Vjetër Beach and Noel Bar Restorante and walked to the beach that way.

We walked along the beach towards the Port and turned off inland and walked parallel to beach past Hotel Regina Garden next to the park and national Museum of Independence. We followed the path around the Vlora Park Pyramid but did not fancy climbing all the steps up for a good view - at least not today!

The new Vlora marina is slowly being built...still a lot to do. Going to be a couple more years at least I think.

We walked down the prom and past the Fun Fair and the across the main street to our road. We decided to go for a lunch at the Adriatik as they were only open until 5pm. We had a sausage omlette and a cheese omlette, greek salad and a basket of bread. I had a home made liquor from grapes called Raki Shtepie and Wendy had a bottle of water and a coffee. Whole bill was 940 Lek which is about $10.45 - not bad! The Raki was 50 Lek last time we were there but they had just put it up to 100 Lek which is still good as it was a good 2 shots or more! Pic of part of the ceiling in the Restaurant as it seemed they had a garden there!

Last pic is a advert for the marina...how its supposed to look. If you zoom in to the right in the park area you can see the Vlora Pyramid that we walked past.

Link here to more about the proposed marina

Later after dark around 7pm we went for a walk to a local bakery Furre buke (ASO) to see what nice things they had there!

They had a large selection of Breads, sandwiches, pizza slices, Byrek and lots of pastries such as Baklava, Chocolate eclairs, scones and many others.

We bought a couple of chocolate eclairs and a couple of shortbread type cake. About $2.75. Lots of people out walking, shopping, getting their hair cut, nails painted etc! Was meant to be up to 82deg today but it clouded over in afternoon so it was not quite as hot. Nice out walking with a slight breeze,

October 12th

Fancied a pizza so went downstairs just outside the entrance...but they were closed - it was early.

So we decided to support our local Albanian restaurant the Adriatik as it was only 4 doord down and open until 5pm. We ordered a mixed salad (Tom's, cucumbers, olives and feta cheese with a little dressing) Wendy had baked Macaroni cheese and I had Okra with beef and some stuffed green peppers. We each had a flash of wine and ended up hav8ng one dessert - the honey drizzled home made cake.

Total bill was 1800 Lek- about $19.25 or 15 quid. I gave her 2000 Lek and she said I had to have a shot of the home made Raki !

Great food, people and prices!

Went for a short walk around the seafront then back to sober up with a coffee!

October 30th

Decided to walk down coast to the first road tunnel which is about 3 miles+ from our apt. We were on our way around 9:30am and planned to stop at the small bakery for a sandwich. However, when we got there he had not made sandwiches yet so we ended up with large spinach byrek each.

We made our way down the coast towards the small pier that had a couple of cafe/restaurants where we got a coffee , bottle of water and pepsi for $3.20

Continued walking down coast along the beach walks and through the pine trees.

A lot of new construction for Hotels and "VIP Beach Club" and maybe a new restaurant just out at sea.

We got to the first small tunnel and walked around it on probably new pedestrian concrete walkways. Google maps said it was 5.2km (3.23 miles) so with the return trip, it would be near 6.5 miles - the longest we have walked for ages!

We stopped at an Ice Cream place for Wendy but I ended up having a large piece of Cheesecake and a coffee!

On the way back we went to the bakery again and this time they had the rolls/sandwiches made :)

We got a couple and a freshly baked large loaf which they sliced for us. (total about$3.50)

Got back to the apt and my legs ached! Crashed for an hour - we had been walking for about 3 hours. Eat our rolls and Spinach Byrek and a chocolate tart I had got from the ice cream shop.

Lovely day out...weather is good for walking most of the day - not too hot even in full sun.

November 6th

Decided to walk up the main drag past the old Muradie Mosque (1537 AD) and Independence monument to visit the old "downtown" part of Vlora. Went as far as the City Hall building and square and stopped for a coffee... then came back through some of old town with the pedestrianized streets. About 4 miles round trip.

November 3rd

Birthday dinners today! Wendy looking for Pasta/Pizza and Chocolate crepes...me, fish and chips!

Got the crepes at the Chocolatier up the road...ok...nothing to write home about. I had a savory crepe.

Decided to go to Italian restaurant just up the road as i knew they served fish.

Wendy had her Linguine and I had some nice Tuna steaks!

1/2 bottle of red wine ($11!!) which was ok but will get the house red next time which tasted better and was cheaper!

November 11th - 26th

We saw a pet sit advertised on THS which was a 20 min walk up the road, so we applied for the sit. The expat couple, Liz and Keith were off to Trieste for a couple of weeks and needed someone to look after their old doggie! The apt was a 3 bed with en-suite and a second bathroom. One of the bedrooms was made up as an office.

Foxy was a Shiba Inu (Japanese hunting dog, 14 years) and was calm, well behaved and loved her walks.

We got to know the area and tried a few cafes and restaurants and cake shops! Prices were slightly better away from the tourist beachfront. The apartment block was above the large Haso Ipermarket so no problem getting regular groceries. Liz had pointed us to a good fresh veg market about 150yds around the corner and it was probably a little cheaper there than the Tani market we frequented when at the AirBnb. Restaurants would come first thing in the morning and fill up their vans for their daily requirements!

Since it is near Christmas most of the Supermarkets have Panettone piled high - I assume its the high Italian population here :) See some of the pics below! Wendy fancied a bottle of Asti so we got that and a Baileys panettone.

We walked the dog early today (22nd) and walked past a pasticeri and decided to splash out on some cookies and brownies. A whole bag for about $3 ! Came back to apt and had them with a couple of cups of tea! Of course...no pics :) Will try better next time! Bad storm coming in...very windy again.